Coffee, Pizza and a search for something illusive

Day 1.

We landed in Malpensa airport 9.15am Saturday morning. I am dismayed to find out that Sixt have rented us a Citron C1. Much comedy later the three of us with luggage and a DMM highball mat are in the car. Two short hours we would be in Val Masino climbing on granite.

Four hours later my nerves frayed, we finally arrive at Sasso Remmno campsite. The Milan traffic a little heavier than I had hoped for.

Tents up, we head to the local crag. The Sasso Remmno boulder, said to be the world’s biggest boulder. We tick a few easy routes, a 5b, 5c and a 6a; the granite providing excellent friction.

Once the light begins to fade, I head off to the local pizza place to celebrate the holiday. Alex searches for Coleman gas.

Day 2.

Sunday brought clear blue skies and cool crisp temps. A few espressos and a bit of yoga practice, then team headed off to the local boulders, only a few minutes’ walk away. La Preda Peintada was the best of the bunch with great lines and a perfect flat landing. The 6B line is a must, just do not mess the top up. We returned to the campsite to get the car, Val Di Mello was calling.

We stopped off in San Martino to search for Coleman gas and top up on espresso in bar Monica’s. Bar Monica’s is run by local climber Simon Pedeferri, this is the place to go to browse guide books and watch climbing films . The coffee is divine.

Val Di Mello was bursting at the seams with people bouldering all over the place. We started off in the Space Shuttle area, again good flat landings. Just look out for the cow dung. We then headed over the river to Proprieta Privata. A great area, we were soon running out of skin and left exhausted. I went for pizza to celebrate, Alex went off muttering. The gas search continued.

Day 3.

Woke up to pouring rain. It was time to get serious; we headed to Morbegno to search for Coleman gas. Found a Intersport, no gas. Also found a Climbing shop called Crazy Girl, lots of E9 and Prana clothing but no gas. We drank espresso, the rain did not let up. Had a press up session in a supermarket foyer. The rain continued. Returned to the campsite, I went for pizza to cheer myself up. Out of season all the pizza shops are shut midweek apparently. Went to bed early.

Day 4.

Drizzle again. Walked around Val Di Mello taking in the stunning surroundings, the waterfalls in full flow. By the afternoon things began to brighten up. Headed back to base then Il Francese. A great roadside venue with zero approach time.The farmer watched us as he milked his cows and seemed amused by our efforts. We bottle the top out mantle on Dell’ivan.Next year.Climbed until late only the lack of light stopping play.

Day 5.

Glorious sunshine. Biceps aching from the late session from yesterday, routes seemed to be sensible option. We spent the day exploring the Sasso Remmno area finding many great lines. Liam was hero of the day onsighting a route two grades harder than his previous best. We celebrated with Grappa in the local bar. The climbing area is well equipped with toilet and rubbish collection
When unloading my rucksack of finger tape, banana skins etc, I happened to spot a canister of Coleman gas in the corner of the bin. Unbelievably it was not empty, Alex was ecstatic.

Day 6.

More good weather. Back to Val Di Mello and the Cascina Piana area. The Masso Del Sole boulder is seriously highball. The easy problem was fun in ascent, I stopped having fun when trying to down climb. Thirty foot tall boulders and lichen are not a good combination. The rest of the day was spent grumbling about grades. The area seemed out of kilter with the rest of Val Masino. Returning to the car we found a parking fine on the windscreen. 105 euros. Took the shine off the day really.

Day 7.

Mist and drizzle. Headed to Selvapiana hoping losing some altitude would help with the weather. The plan paid off, clear skies greeted us. The boulders are set in a dense sweet chestnut wood, a great location. The bouldering was excellent, slabby and technical. We headed to Fiorelli’s Pizza in San Martino. The pizza was the best I have ever eaten.

Day 8.

Mist and drizzle. Headed to Spriana hoping losing some altitude would help with the weather. The plan did not pay off. Mist and low cloud greeted us. Had a quick session on anything we could find dry. Returning to Val Masino, the weather had improved. Stopped off at Zocca Superiore and climbed until dark.

Day 9.

Home time. We pack up, then headed to the local crag for a few hours of routes. Every low/mid grade route had a team climbing on it. Bouldered at Remenno . It was soon time to head back to the airport. The week passing in a blink of a eye. A excellent time was had by all, the espresso and pizza outstanding.

We vow to return