On the 28th Feb 2009 four MKMC members flew out to Rjukan, Norway for a spot of ice climbing. Read one of Gary’s tales of the trip below and take a look at Nigel’s photos.

Fools with tools, a morning in Rjukan

The photo below is of a route called Sh*t happens. It’s called this because it’s a raw sewage outlet.

We go to the nicest places. Yes it did smell. This two pitch WI4 really lived up to its name. To get to the start of the route, involved climbing a thin mixed traverse above the river around a blunt arête. I gingerly went first, scratching and hooking my way to the belay ledge. Whilst I started stamping out a bigger belay platform Alex was battling the approach. The first I knew of any problems was a huge splash and a small amount of profanity. Alex took a dunking to around mid thigh level.
Incident one.

Alex took the first pitch with no problems; I was soon breaking down the belay and following.
All was going well until a piece of ice fell from above and tried its hardest to rip my head off, I did not even see it coming. My helmet took most of the blow, my forehead getting bashed and cut along the way. More swearing. When I arrived at the belay Alex took delight in telling me blood was about to run into my eye. Raw sewage and cuts = bad times.

I climbed through, just before you top out you have to climb over a wire fence. As I hooked the wire fence it wobbled massively, this in turn wobbled the sewage outlet pipe. This launched three, twelve inch by four inch solid ice missiles down the route. F**k me I am going to kill Alex was my first thought. Shortly followed by I am going to struggle to get people to climb, with if I am known as a belay killer. They missed by a good margin I am told, phew. Find a sturdy looking sapling, set up a belay, jobs a good’un. For the next few routes whenever any equipment touched the snow it would stain it yellow. Really unpleasant.

The route tally for the week came in at 35, not bad going.

This is one of many tales I could tell, others include a trip to the hospital resulting in a huge plaster cast, someone falling off a WI5 roadside test piece after talking about you should never fall on ice. An experienced mountaineer suffering equipment failure mid route. Losing control of the hire car, hello snow bank. Someone hanging off both axes when their crampons popped, a big ground fall looming.

A big thanks to all those on the trip. I am certain an excellent time was had by all.
Also thanks to Bill M for the loan of three ice screws, these came out on most routes. Cheers.
Plans are getting put in place for the next visit.

Gary