From my perch 2500m above sea level I could see the snow covered summit of Mont Blanc. Paragliders circled around the cable car which had brought us to Le Brevent, and far below, Chamonix. This was the setting for my coral wedding anniversary, 700 miles away from my wife, Cathy, who was watching birds at Slimbridge. And what a setting!

The weather for the period of our stay had been very hot, which I had not properly considered when I brought my 4 season sleeping bag, thermal vests, hat and gloves. Fortunately I had remembered to pack the factor 50.

Gary, Alex and I had joined the throng to catch the Brevent cable car in Chamonix; and in less than 30 minutes we were at the top, and once at the crag the other people on the cable car melted away, leaving us with the whole crag to ourselves. The rock is a golden compact gneiss, and friction on the slabby routes here is generally poor. We started with ‘Les Ailes du desir’ (5a), and this succumbed without too much difficulty. The 3 of us had the following system for climbing: the first person to climb the route would clip the bolts on the way up; then get lowered to the ground leaving the runners ‘in situ’, and the rope would be pulled down. The second and third climbers would repeat the climb so that in effect everyone had a chance to lead the pitch; the last person would strip the gear as they were lowered down. Fortunately, we were all climbing at a similar level and the system worked well. We just had to be careful that routes were not longer than 30 metres, as we only had a 60 metre rope.

Next to succumb was ‘Enfant de la lune’ (5c) with a committing start. Most of the routes at La Brevent had a bold start with at least a 5 metre run-out; not for the faint hearted.

During the day a group of French guides with their clients arrived. They seem to have no qualms about using the bolts for aid – very different ethics from us! Around mid-day various groups of walkers gathered for a picnic, and we provided them with their lunchtime entertainment.

The last route of the day was a dream. ‘Poil dans la main’ (5c+) starts up a flared crack. After a series of intricate moves there is a final, committing, rising traverse left which brings one to the top. A really ‘good value’ climb.

During our 11 days of climbing we visited the majority of the crags in Steve’s Chamonix guide book. Les Gaillands, our local crag; Vallorcine, with its lovely setting overlooking the valley; La Joux, tucked away in a wooded area; Servoz, steep, with some powerful overhanging finishes; Barberine, over the boarder in Switzerland, where friction is king and Le Montenvers, overlooking the Mer de Glace, another area where hand holds are non-existent.

We worked out, got tanned and lost weight. Chamonix has something for everyone. Thanks to Rachel for being the impetus. You’d better get started organising next years holiday.

Alan