Climbing in Skye (Matt Box)

The dark grey rock towered up in front of me for hundreds of meters blocking the sun’s light and warmth. It was still early and we were the first group of climbers to reach the base of the Cioch Buttress that morning. The Cioch Buttress rises out of the talus slopes to the south of Sgur Alasdair, the highest point of the Black Cuillins, and forms the base of Sron Na Ciche, a mountainous hump with an southern face that slopes toward the sea and vertiginous, rocky western face that houses several buttresses each packed with some of the best multi-pitch routes on Skye, and by extension, the UK.

The Cuillin Ridge lies in the southwest corner of Skye and is a massive crescent of igneous rock left behind by an ancient volcano. The rocky edifice of the ridge sweeps around from the south toward the northeast in a jagged arc some ten kilometres long. The train of gabbroic peaks are often cut by steep sided fissures where ancient basaltic or doleritic feeder dykes have weathered out. The ridge is imposing and formidable and the black rock and tall looming peaks imbue a sense of calm wonder laced with a threat of imminent danger: it is both beautiful and malign.

Climbing as a group of three, our plan for that day was a relatively mild affair. We intended to ascend the lower tier of the Cioch Buttress via Cioch West (7 pitches; S 4a or VDiff in older guidebooks) and to reach the large terrace that transects the buttress from bottom left to top right by lunch time. We would then climb the upper tier of the buttress via Arrow Route (2 pitches; VDiff) and finish up Integrity (2 pitches; HS 4b) reaching the top of the ridge at about tea-time before descending back to our tents at the Glen Brittle campsite.

We started our day’s climbing very well ascending rapidly up the first 3 or 4 pitches of Cioch West without any problems. Rach and I took alternate lead and third with the cumbersome rucksack that contained enough food and water for us all for the day. Verity, the third of our group, had the guide-book and descent shoes clipped to her harness and climbed second. The rock was reassuringly dry and the friction incredible despite the traffic that must have passed along the route. Protection was ample and we thoroughly enjoyed that morning’s climbing up the open chimneys.

It was at the top of the fourth pitch that the route description became a little vague and we lost Cioch West. Rachael led a short pitch up an awkward groove that led leftward up toward a large bulge. Climbing the groove the left rope became snagged in a nook of coarse gabbro some meters below her and forced her to stop due to the enormous drag. Unable to progress and not wanting to damage the ropes Rach set up a hanging belay where she was and Verity and I climbed up to her, freeing the rope as we passed the snag. The awkwardness of the route was a clear indication that we were off Cioch West and on some part of an adjacent climb. The hanging belay proved uncomfortable with the three of us cramped up together and we transferred the gear and rucksack between us as quickly as possible. I led the next part of the route which followed a crack line around the bulge overhead. Protection was a little difficult to find at times, but was there when one looked for. With some effort – and a little swearing – I surmounted the bulge and passed an old rusty peg runner to gain the easing slab above for the belay. Phew!

Having gained the easier slabs above the three of us had a rest, a bite to eat and reassessed where we were on the Cioch Buttress. The presence of the rusty peg runner suggested that we had strayed from Cioch West onto the crux pitch of Crembo Cracks (HVS 5a) – a good combined lead and second for us all and, thankfully, tackled in ignorance of the grade. The slabs on which we sat refuelling led easily upwards to a final improbable-looking, but ultimately simple, wall which gained a final slab with boulders before reaching the large terrace and the base of Arrow Route.

Arrow Route ascends an enormous slab in two diagonally trending pitches that, as the name implies, form a crude arrow shape. The bottom pitch is well protected for its 25 m and is essentially a walk leftward along a crack line to an obvious belay. From here the climb becomes much more interesting as the protection on the second pitch is sparse and the climbing run-out but very, very enjoyable. The slab’s gradient increases on ascent and the final moves can feel a little precarious. However, the surface of the slab is covered in lumps and bumps, almost like it was made of enormous pieces of gabbroic puffed rice that had been welded together, so there were plenty of edges for feet and crimps for fingers. It is this second pitch that gives the climb its star rating and was enormous fun. I raced up to the top to quickly set up a belay so the others could join me. We were in competition now with other climbers whose aim was also the base of Integrity. We’d learned from our previous attempt to get onto this climb that it was a natural bottle-neck and one could be left waiting a long time. Verity and Rach crushed Arrow Route with great speed and, whilst I dealt with the mess of ropes, they bagged our position at the base of Integrity.

After a little wait for the group ahead of us we were to start Integrity. I have to admit to being a little apprehensive about this climb as, despite its grade being something with which I am comfortable, it follows a series of cracks up a rather difficult-looking bulging buttress of imposing dark rock. It was Rach’s turn to lead the first pitch with its awkward start of a short chimney and crack. Coping with this section admirably, she reached the slabbier section above and reached the spacious belay ledge some 45 m above in no time. V and then I then started up. The awkward start is readily lay-backed and I found it a surprisingly simple affair to gain height quickly, despite the bag catching on the wall behind me. The slab above with its obvious crack is pure pleasure climbing. The top section holds a couple of tricky moves – where the views are grand and one gets an airy feel – that allow one to gain access to the belay ledge.

Leading the final pitch up twin cracks I was struck by the similarity of the route to the kind of climbs found on Cornish granite which often follow lines along weathered out joint planes, the coarse igneous rock providing ample friction under foot. Integrity is a true HS graded climb with a myriad of hand holds and foot placements that provide a great deal of entertainment in a great situation on exposed rock. It isn’t difficult to see why this route is a ‘must-climb’ classic for the ridge and the island.

Reaching the top of the ridge a little after 6 pm and taking the obligatory photographs, we descended via the Eastern Gully and an abseil back down Arrow Route to the large terrace. Tired but happy we got back to the tents at about half past eight and immediately opened a few well earned beers!