May 2023 – South Pembrokeshire –  An AI Shakespearean epic!

Upon Pembrokeshire’s shores, where sunlight doth reside,
A band of merry climbers did convene,
To scale the cliffs of legend, with hearts filled with pride,
And pay homage to Henry, the Tudor king serene.

From Windmill Farm’s embrace, their journey did commence,
Where Charlie and Peter set their tents with care,
While Kathy braved the downpour, her spirit undeterred,
To join their ranks, her climbing skills to share.

Penally’s cliffs awaited, with slabs so smooth and grand,
A reintroduction to abseiling’s art,
The sunbeams danced upon the rocks, a welcoming command,
As Rusty Slab and Ferrous Rib took their part.

James, Lee, and Tom emerged from far eastern lands,
To join the merry band, their spirits soaring high,
Rusty Corner, Pollock Diff, and Chocolate Brownies’ sands,
Were conquered with finesse, beneath the azure sky.

“While the Cat’s Away” they challenged, with a grin so wide,
Lee led the way, with Tom by his side,
But doubts arose, was it truly VS, or something more severe?
A conundrum left to ponder, as the tide began to ne’er.

A pub dinner awaited, with laughter and good cheer,
As stories of the day were shared, far and near.

Saturday’s dawn unveiled a sky of purest blue,
The rain had shed its tears, leaving sunshine in its wake,

To Stack Rocks car park they ventured, with spirits ever new,
Crystal Slabs and Flimston Bay, their climbing prowess to partake.

Kathy led the way on Flimston Slab, with Peter close behind,
Lee and Tom followed suit, their movements swift and fine,
Flimston Crack and Razzle Dazzle, their challenges entwined,
With Charlie and James in tow, their climbing skills did shine.

The Gadfly, a test of endurance, up the slab they soared,
James and Peter conquering its heights with grace,
While Tom and Kathy watched in awe, their climbing passion soared,
A highlight of the weekend, leaving an indelible trace.

Crystal Arete, a nervy slab, with gear both bold and high,
A final 5a move, an overhang to defy,
Charlie led the way, with James his steadfast guide,
A testament to their climbing skills, in which they did confide.

Sixth Crack, a pleasant diversion, not quite as grand,
Yet still a challenge worthy of their climbing band,
Charlie and James prevailed, their footsteps firm and sure,
As the day drew to a close, their climbing hearts secure.

With Lee nursing a cold, the rest returned to camp,
Content with their achievements, their spirits ever bright,
But Charlie and James, with one last climb to vamp,
Embraced the fading light.

“The First Waltz,” an E1, with moves both bold and new,
Charlie led the way, his determination true,
Dancing up the slab, with moves both strong and sure,

A fitting end to their climbing adventure pure.

Tom and James, the culinary duo, with nachos so grand,
Their recipe a secret, only shared among the band,
A taste of heaven, a culinary delight,
Their friendship a beacon, shining ever bright.

Sunday’s dawn brought changes, as the group did part,
James and Charlie ventured forth, with adventurous hearts,
To Mother Carey’s Kitchen, a venue of renown,
Where seabirds soared above, and crashing waves resound.

Saddle Head, a classic crag, with routes both easy and bold,
Lee, Peter, Kathy, and Tom, their climbing stories told,
“Small Beginnings,” “Forgotten Corner,” “Fel Gwyr,” and “Flake Quake,”
Their climbing prowess tested, for their own sakes.

Sea Mist, a traverse so exposed, with fingery holds so fine,
Peter led the way, his balance and skill divine,
An atmospheric experience, a memory to enshrine,
A testament to their climbing skills, both bold and sublime.

James and Charlie ventured forth, to Mother Carey’s lair,
Where Rock Idol awaited, a challenge beyond compare,
E1 5a, the best in the land, so they were told,
But fate intervened, a bird’s nest in the way, their spirits bold.

With patient James on belay, watching the tide so near,
Charlie reluctantly retreated, his frustration clear,
Yet the adventure continued, with “The Cracks” they did ascend,
A fitting end to their journey, as their climbing skills transcend.

The final day brought rain, a monsoon’s wrath unleashed,
But the climbers’ spirits remained, their memories enriched,
From Pembrokeshire’s shores, their journey now complete,

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

May 2023 – South Pembrokeshire

5 th – 9 th May
Pembroke delivers the sunshine! Whilst one previous Prince of Wales formally became King some of MKMC headed to the birthplace of Henry VII (the UK’s only Welsh King and the founder of the Tudor dynasty) for a superb weekend of sea-cliff climbing. Heading off the rain on Thursday evening Charlie and Peter met at the charming Windmill Farm Campsite to set tents before Peter braved a deluge to collect Kathy from Swansea. The following morning the 3 made their way to Penally once the weather had cleared. Friday turned out to be a very fine day of slab climbing and a good re-introduction to the delights of abbing into sea-cliffs. The remainder of the party (James, Lee and Tom) made good time up from far east, meeting the others shortly after lunchtime.

Logbook for the day:
Rusty Slab VS 4c – Charlie, Peter & Kathy. A bold start to get the blood pumping.
Ferrous Rib VS 4c – Enjoyed by Peter & Kathy first then lead again by Charlie
with James.
Rusty Corner HS 4b – Fine lead by James followed by Charlie.
Pollock Diff – A crack on the smaller slab lead by Lee with Tom. Kathy then led
Peter on it.
Chocolate Brownies S 4a – a popular snack led first by Lee with Tom, then Peter
with Kathy and finally James with Charlie (from a hanging belay as the tide was fast
approaching).
While the cat’s away VS 4c – Led by Lee with Tom and thought over-graded.
Severe?
The high tide was late afternoon and made the starts of the further routes difficult.
A pleasant pub dinner was enjoyed.


Saturday:
Whilst a band of torrential rain sat on the rest of the UK, once the morning cloud cleared we had another fine and sunny day. Heading to the Stack Rocks car park at the far end of Range East another day on superb slabs beckoned. Peter, Kathy, Lee and Tom wanted to consolidate on some of the classics at the beautiful Flimston Bay, climbing on the slab there before heading over to join James and Charlie at Crystal Slabs for the remainder of the day. These are highly distinctive, non-tidal 60m slabs with a steep but easy scramble approach.

Logbook:
Flimston Slab VD – Led by Kathy with Peter and then Lee with Tom.
Flimston Crack VD – Led by Lee with Tom.
Razzle Dazzle VS 4c ** – Excellent climbing with a very satisfying crux at the
overlap. First up for Charlie with James then later led by Peter with Tom and
Kathy. A fine second by Tom and his highlight of the weekend.
The Gadfly VS 4c ** -Fine, sustained climbing up the slab with some lovely moves
at the overlap, widely considered the best of the VS’s here. A fine lead by James
with Charlie and later by Peter with Kathy.
Crystal Arete HVS 5a * – A long nervy slab with HS climbing and HVS gear,
followed by a fairly intimidating but well-protected 5a move on an overhang into a
garden of sea-cabbage. Due to rope drag a necessary hanging belay before the final
7 m. Lead by Charlie with James
Sixth Crack VS 4C – Actually the first main crack of the slab, overlaps with the
Gadfly to give a pleasant and although similar, not quite as satisfying experience.
Led by Charlie with James.
At this point, most of the group returned to the campsite satisfied with a full day
although Lee was suffering from a cold which had left him out of action for the
afternoon.
Charlie and James decided they had one last climb in them and with no tide to
worry about and the lingering days stayed for Charlie to lead The First Waltz E1 5b
*. Some really enjoyable dancing up the slab with an unusual E1 comedy run out and
a couple of brilliant moves onto the steepening headwall. A very fine climb with
seems a touch overlooked.
A special mention must go to Tom and James and the Apocalypse Nachos. Speak
to Tom for the recipe.


Sunday
The group split with James and Charlie heading off to Mother Carey’s Kitchen, leaving the rest to go to Saddle Head. They had a good day bagging a number of routes at that classic venue. It offers a scramble approach as well as abseil and is often a fairly busy and friendly crag. It offers some of the best easier climbing in Pembroke including some absolute classics like Sea-Mist and Blue Sky. Typically for James and Charlie, Mother Scarey’s was living up to her name. A hugely intimidating venue with a hanging ab in and the easiest escape route, The Cracks, goes at HS. The day there was delayed by the tide. Then Charlie attempted a long-anticipated climb of Rock Idol E1 5a. Described as the best E1 in the country. Happily, for Charlie’s outrageously pumped arms, there was a bird’s nest at about 35m that forced a begrudging retreat. James was wonderfully patient on the belay while he nervously watched the tide. A welcome Chinese meal ended the day.

Log book
At Saddle Head:
Small Beginnings -VD Led by Lee and Peter
Forgotten Corner – HVD Led by Lee and described as an absolute sandbag
Fel Gwyr – D (led by Kathy and Lee)
Flake Quake – S 4a Led by Lee and Peter. Lee’s highlight of an illness-restricted
weekend.
Sea Mist – HS 4a – Led by Peter, a super exposed, atmospheric, fingery traverse
and arete
At Mother Carey’s
Rock Idol – E1 5a dnf
The Cracks -HS twice

The final day was rained off as finally the monsoon made its way to the coast and
very satisfied climbers made the long journey east.
A terrific weekend’s climbing at the UK’s truly unique and world-class venue.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

April 2023 – Hardhurst Farm

28th April to 1st May

We arrived to a drying campsite having lucked out and missed the rain. Heading to the usual spot we were happy to see Alan’s lovely gazebo waiting and ready to receive us. Tents were pitched and food eaten. Some ate at the campsite while others made for the pub. Shane’s electric car got stuck so we pushed him out to higher ground. We had 17 turn up in the end so I was glad to have asked for 20 spaces.

On Sat we split between climbers, runners and walkers.
Neal, Stu and Tom did a few early routes at Carl Warl and then joined Gill, Loz, Mark, Ollie,
Naomi, Alan and Keith at Burbage South. Later, Peter, Kathy and Matthew also arrived. We had a good day of climbing and even enjoyed some sun.
Shane ran Win Hill to Edale Skyline while Nigel walked Win Hill.
Most went for a social meal at the pub on Sat night.


Sunday saw the climbing group head for Stanage “away from it all”.
A larger group of walkers that included Peter and Kathy, Gill and Loz, Michelle and Nigel took the train to Edale and then walked Kinder Scout.


A smaller group decided to climb on Monday. Some of the party had to head back late Sunday so we were without the walkers. Climbing was at High Neb end of Stanage. We left early and got parking which was lucky given it was the first BH.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

MKMC Learns to Rescue

Recently some members had expressed an interest in learning some valuable self-rescue skills. We should always plan not to get into tricky situations but if that happens, it’s great to be prepared with some simple and improvised techniques to get ourselves out of bother.

The Club was able to book a local MCI David Whiteley, who owns and operates Adventure Days UK adventuredaysuk.com/ for a 2-day course at Pinnacle Northampton. 6 members self-funded the course and subject to interest we may look to run another fixture in the future. The training requires prior knowledge of abseiling and anchor building but if you are interested, please contact a member of the committee.

During the course we covered tying off the belay, assisted and unassisted hoists, problem-solving, ascending, passing knots, escaping the system and rescuing on a traverse. Everyone agreed that the course was extremely valuable and a great time was had by all and there are some photos below to prove it.

 

For anyone with a copy of Libby Peter’s “Rock Climbing: Essential Skills and Techniques” these skills are covered in pages;
183 abseiling
187 the Italian hitch
217 ascending ropes
221 backing up a prussik
222 tying off a belay
223 prussiking up and down a rope
252 ascending with guide mode
265 assisted hoist
267 unassisted hoist
275 passing a knot

JB Mountain Skills and Leading Edge are also a great resource on YouTube.

REMEMBER: You don’t know what you don’t know. Climbing is dangerous, don’t attempt anything that you haven’t been taught by a professional or aren’t completely comfortable doing because getting it wrong may lead to injury or death.

Posted in 2023 | Leave a comment