May 2026 – Isle of Skye

13-20 May 2026 – Isle of Skye

As hinted at the end of the Lundy trip report, the sea cliffs of Scotland were to be the venue for our next adventurous trad climbing trip. Skye was chosen to be the venue, and the three survivors of the Lundy trip, James P, Kieran and Peter signed up, one of our number having since emigrated to the US. The climbing contingent was bolstered by Josh, and the choice of a mountainous island larger than 1.5 square miles meant we were to be joined by a hiking party comprising Gill, Lawrence and Nigel.

Sligachan campsite, located centrally on the island, was chosen as our base with all arriving on Wednesday 13 May. In contrast to the previous year’s Lundy trip, the weather forecast for the week was approaching awful, with colder than normal temperatures, showers and rain, and an absence of dry weather on the forecast for the coming week. I was to have my work cut out to retain the title of weather Jesus on this trip.

Thursday 14 May – Suidhe Biorach and Portree
For the first day proper of the trip, the climbing contingent chose to go to Suidhe Biorach, south-facing sandstone sea cliffs near Elgol on the island’s south coast. It was raining at the campsite, and claggy on the Cuillin, but the wind was blowing from the north, so it was hoped that the sea cliffs on the south coast would be in the rain shadow. So it proved, and we arrived to find a sheltered sun trap.

Over the course of the day, the climbing pairs manage 4 routes each. Kieran and Josh climbed together, with Kieran leading Angel of Sharkness (HVS 5a) and Tree route (E1 5b), and Josh leading Jamie Jampot (VS 4c) and Hairy Mary (VS 4b). Peter and James both lead Fertility left (HS 4c), with Peter then also leading Hairy Mary and Jamie Jampot, as well as Fertility right (Severe 4a). The climbing is steep, but juggy, with the crag offering a high concentration of good quality routes in a fantastic setting.

Meanwhile, with bad weather not looking promising for a Munro, the hikers opted to go to Portree for a walk around, enjoying Cullen Skink for lunch and doing some shopping. Gil bought a small gimmicky guidebook listing 56 Isle of Skye trig points, in which they found a route and a trig point above the Old Man of Storr, which was on Gill’s list.

Friday 15 May – Kilt Rock and the Old Man of Storr
The weather looked much the same on the second day of the trip, with another rainy day and northerly winds. Hoping its low elevation might ensure any showers would pass over quickly, and its southerly aspect would keep the routes dry, the climbers opted to go to Kilt Rock, spectacular dolerite cliffs on the north of the island. The weather looked ominous on the approach, and we arrived at the crag to be met by a shower. The climbing prospects looked bleak, but not to be deterred, Kieran descended into the gully in front of the cliffs for an inspection and was rewarded by the sight of largely dry rock.

Kieran and Josh again climbed together, opting first for Grey Panther (E1 5b) which Kieran led for his first Extreme Rock tick. There are three-star routes, and there are three-star routes. Or as guidebook author Gary Latter would put it, in Scotland there are three-star routes and there are four-star routes. Grey Panther is one of the latter, and you could throw any superlative you can think of at it and you still wouldn’t get close to describing how good it is. Forty-five metres of sustained jamming and bridging up parallel cracks in the dolerite in a wonderfully exposed position.

Peter and James opted for Clandestine (VS 5a), a full value Scottish VS, and a hard and intimidating climb which they thought was stiff for the grade. After this, they opted to return to the campsite.

After Grey Panther, Kieran could have gone home, never mind the campsite, and have been happy with his return on the trip. But he and Josh opted to descend the gully for another route, Secret Service (HVS 5a) which Kieran led. A three-star route that would have been the highlight on any other day.

Meanwhile, the hikers opted to try their luck with the weather at the nearby Old Man of Storr. A broken coffee machine meant Nigel, Loz and Gill managed to nab the last remaining parking space at the café across from the visitors’ centre. And, after waiting out the heavy rain shower, they set off to see the Old Man. Considering the weather, the trail was surprisingly both very steep and very busy. To their delight, it started to snow as they approached the halfway point, but sadly this proved short-lived.

After taking the required tourist photos, they continued on their way, leaving the crowds behind. The weather cleared and they enjoyed a beautiful hike up a steep ridge, onto a surreal flat green summit, almost like a golfing green, where they found the weather trig point, Storr East Summit 714m. They then headed down the grassy descent, scrambled down beside a rocky stream and across the boggy flat land back to the van.

Saturday 16 May – Sron na Ciche and Bruach na Frithe
For the first time on the trip, Saturday promised a better day weather-wise, with fine sunshine, little wind and clear sky. But there was a catch, rain to arrive at 4pm. To make the most of the weather window, the climbers decided to rise early and head into the Cuillin, targeting a link-up on Sron na Ciche. Rising at 5am after a bitterly cold night, they left the campsite for Glen Brittle at 6am.

Blazing a trail from sea level, and with Peter sporting two right-hand gloves, they arrived at the base of the cliff at 700m at around 8.30m. Given the limited weather-window, temperatures below freezing on the mountain, and a desire not to discover what rain might look like at that altitude, the climbers opted to skip the better multi-pitches at the base of the cliff in favour of a faster ascent of Little Gully (Diff). This would allow them to access their desired routes on the upper buttresses more quickly. Little Gully was largely scrambled, with Peter and Kieran leading a few short sections.

On arrival at the Cioch Slab above, the climbers broke off into pairs. Kieran and Josh did Arrow Route Direct (Severe 4a), a run out but easy-angled slab which Kieran led. While James and Peter swung leads on Arrow Route (VDiff), a two-pitch and slightly less run-out classic rock route up the same slab. The pairs then took turns to do Integrity (VS 4b), the main target of the day, with Kieran and Peter leading. This was another of Gary Latter’s four-star routes, as well as a classic rock tick, and is a contender for the best VS in Scotland. The setting and exposure of the first pitch in particular give justification for its status, with the whole mountain seemingly falling away below your feet.

With both pairs topping out before 2pm, they continued to the top of the cliff, before making the long descent of the Sgumain stone shoot. They arrived back at Glen Brittle around 4pm to refuel in the delightful café in the campsite just as it started to rain.

Meanwhile, the hikers, Nigel, Loz and Gill made use of the better weather window to bag their first Munro of the trip, Bruach na Frithe, 959m. This gave a long walk in and got steeper as they got towards the summit. And they were excited to find that they had to cross a snowfield to reach the summit.

The weather cooperated and the hikers had a very nice day, followed by an expensive celebratory pint and an even more expensive glass of Prosecco in the pub on their way back to the campsite. This was Loz’s first ever Munro, and Gill and Nigel’s second (after Ben Nevis).

Sunday 17 May – Flodigarry and Duntulm Castle
For Sunday, normal service was set to resume, with a return of the showery weather. The climbers opted to try their luck at the less-visited Flodigarry in the north of the island, hoping that the Cuillin would catch the worst of the showers blowing in from the southwest to leave it in the rain shadow.

So it proved, and one brief shower notwithstanding we enjoyed another fine, sunny day on the dolerite sea cliffs.

Pairing up for the first route, Kieran and Josh did the classic of the crag, Spantastic (HVS 4c), with Kieran leading. This esoteric climb ascends a unique feature, a precarious, narrow pillar of rock in the South entrance to a sea tunnel through the back of the cliff. This offers bold and exposed climbing up the pillar, above which we found a shag nesting on the belay ledge. The shag made clear it was not particularly happy to see us, so we traversed left into Head in the Clouds to finish. Peter and James started on Raining Men (VS 4C), with Peter leading. This offered a tough starting crack, with Peter choosing to finish up the arete.

We then changed partners, with Kieran and Peter doing Lucy in the Sky (HVS 5a) with Kieran leading.

While low in the grade, this offered more sustained climbing that Spantastic with a delicate traverse giving way to a sustained crack climb. Josh and James partnered up for Head in the Clouds (VS 4c), with Josh leading. This proved somewhat harrowing, with the rarely climbed route proving to have more than its fair share of loose rock.

Meanwhile, the poor weather over the hills led the hikers to opt for a rest day. Nigel, Loz and Gill decided to go for a drive around the north of the island. With the roads proving narrow and winding, it was a welcome break for them to get out and have a short walk to the ruins of Duntulm Castle. Having driven through heavy showers, it was a relief for them to find blue skies and sunshine at the Castle.

Monday 18 May – Sron na Ciche, Neist, Bla Bheinn and Nigel’s Birthday
Monday offered the best day’s weather of the entire trip, with fine sunshine and no rain whatsoever on the forecast. The climbers broke off into two groups. James and Kieran set off early, returning to Glen Brittle to enjoy T-shirt weather on their repeat ascent to Sron na Ciche. Their target for the day was the three-pitch Vulcan Wall (HVS 5a), another of Gary Latter’s 4-star routes and a hard rock tick.

This offered a wonderfully exposed and sustained climb up a crack system in a steep slab. Despite the warm weather, the cracks were still soaking wet, but this didn’t detract from what was a fantastic route of obvious quality.

Returning to the base of the climb, they found birds had done a number on James’ bag, emptying its contents, ripping his dry bag, smashing his Tupperware and relieving him of his lunch. If nothing else, at least karma was restored in the bird world after our encounter with the shag the previous day. Solace was sought, and found, in the excellent café at the campsite in Glen Brittle.

Josh and Peter opted for a later start, setting out for the sea cliffs at Neist on the east coast of the island. Here too they enjoyed fine sunny weather on the single-pitch dolerite cliffs of the financial sector. Peter led Midas Touch (VS 4c), and Josh led Shocks and Stares (VS 4b), before they took turns to lead Terminal Bonus (HVS 5a), which gave Josh his first HVS lead.

Meanwhile, the hikers decided to make good use of the better weather to bag another Munro. Nigel, Loz and Gill summited Bla Bheinn (Blaven), 929m, and were then tempted across to the South Top, 927m, via a short scramble. They were then tempted to scramble up The Prow, 741m, on the way down to make for a superb day out with three summits bagged. The small gimmicky guidebook proved to be a solid investment, giving the hikers their three Isle of Skye trig points and two Munros on the Cuillin.

Monday night saw the entire group reuniting in the pub across from the campsite to celebrate Nigel’s Birthday. Happy Birthday Nigel! One of the things discussed was where to go for next year’s adventurous trip. Although he denies it, several witnesses attest to Peter having raised the Old Man of Hoy on Orkney as an option. So, Stack Attack the sequel may well be on for next year.

Tuesday 19 May – Neist and the Fairy Pools
Tuesday was to be the day that the weather Jesus’ luck finally ran out. Although, it must be said that to have found dry climbing on five of the six days of the trip, on the back of the pretty dismal forecast, was a miracle that would have made the big man proud. The hikers opted to pack up and set off for home having thoroughly enjoyed the trip.

Meanwhile, the climbers optimistically returned to Neist in the hope it might be escaping the rain. It wasn’t and with strong winds blowing off the Atlantic, there was to be no climbing today. Instead, they opted for a walk down to the lighthouse at Neist Point, a café stop and a walk to the Fairy Pools, a series of cascades on the River Brittle at the foot of the Cuillin. Returning to a wet campsite, to find one of the tents leaking, they all packed up and started for home in the evening.