March 2023 – Peak District Meet – Derbyshire Pennine Club Hut, Stoney Middleton

After a couple of last minute drop-outs due to weather concerns, 12 people went on the March 23 trip to the Peak District. We stayed in a new hut for the club; Carlswark Cottage in Stoney Middleton which is owned by the Derbyshire Pennine Club, one of the oldest mountaineering clubs in the country, dating back to 1906. The hut was clean, spacious, well equipped, warm and cozy, with a nice wood-burning stove.

The majority of the group arrived on Friday, with Tom, Matt, Charlie, Myself and a non-member guest Leslie-Anne (LA) arrived early and after a brief stop in Hathersage to spend money in Outside we headed to climb at Wharncliffe Edge as this looked to have the best chance of staying dry.

Tom climbed with Matt, but sadly managed to get a cam stuck on his first route and despite 90 minutes of ingenuity including a 5:1 pulley system they were unable to get it back out.

Myself, Charlie and LA had a more successful afternoon, climbing 2 Severes and an impressive E1 5b lead of the 3* Great Buttress Arete by Charlie.

Gill, Laurence, Nick, Stu, Jack and Nigel arrived in the evening and Matt kindly prepared a chicken curry for dinner which was very gratefully received by all.

On Saturday the majority of the group headed to Birchen Edge which is an excellent venue for novice trad leaders. Unfortunately the weather was temperamental and much of the morning was spent dodging light showers.

Myself, Nick & LA decided to cut our losses, and headed to Hathersage for a Tea and bit more gear shopping. By the afternoon the weather brightened significantly and we headed to Horse-Thief Quarry, a sport climbing venue with a grueling 30 second walk-in. Between us did a 4c, a 5a, 2 5c’s, a 6a and a 6a+, not a bad effort for an afternoon. Nick did especially well successfully leading a 5c when he’s only led up to 5c indoors!

The rest of the group persevered at Birchen and were rewarded with good weather in the afternoon. Charlie climbed with Jack and Stuart and racked up an impressive 10 routes from Severe to VS including ascents of the ‘Classic Rock’ ticks of Topsail and Sail Buttress.

Gill, Tom, Matt and Laurence climbed together, joined by Neal who popped up for the day, braving the weather paying dividends and allowing them to get some great climbing done.

Nigel spent Saturday walking along Curbar Edge, Froggatt Edge, and back along White Edge and Sunday walked along Stanage Edge and visited Robins Hood cave. His highlight was eating lunch on White Edge in brilliant sunshine watching the rain a couple of miles away on Stanage Edge

On Sunday Gill, Laurence, LA and Nick enjoyed a nice walk starting from Curbar Gap car park, they headed north along Curbar Edge which led into Froggatt Edge, continued north past a stone circle and then from Frogatt car park they headed west and skirting the edge of Nether Padley and up through the trees to the Longshaw Estate. They enjoyed coffee and lunch at the cafe and headed south again along the top of White Edge, stopping at White Peak trig point for a photo. They saw beautiful deer in the Longshaw Estate.

Tom and Matt did a bit of shopping and then headed home early while myself, Charlie and Stuard headed to Rivelin seeking somewhere sheltered on what was forecast to be a cold windy day. The weather actually turned out to be very pleasant. We started up with a warm up on Temple Crack (HVD) before Charlie led (for the third time this year!) the spectacular Croton Oil (HVS 5a) on the Rivelin Needle. Stuart described this as the “best route he’s done” before getting a crash-course in abseiling as that’s the only way off of the pinnacle. I then led Left Edge, a VS 4c slab climb with a committing step out onto a hanging flange. Charlie then finished the day off with another strong lead of Blizzard Ridge HVS 5a which snakes its way around a prominent arete.

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Club gear for new members

The MKMC Committee recently approved the purchase of some additional equipment to help indoor climbers make the move outside. Each set includes a helmet and nutkey so that members can have a go at seconding.

This kit is available to any full member for a personal or club trip, please contact the trip organiser or committee to acquire a set on loan.

The set becomes the responsibility of the member for the loan period and they will need to arrange collection, report any damages and organise it’s safe return accordingly.

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March 2023 – Alex Macintyre Hut – Onich

14 th to 19 th March 2023

Tuesday
A fine blue skies day with fresh snow and hard neve on the ground. Alex and Gary went
for a long, 16 mile walk up Sgurr Eildhe Mor (1010) in the Mamores – the most easterly
Munro in the chain. Fine views across Lochaber. Peter, on the way up from Edinburgh,
climbed West Gully (I) onto Beinn an Dothaidh (1004) which was a bit shorter at 5 miles!
He also had blue skies and cold air with some very firm neve giving an exciting top out to
the climb. As our winter mountaineering instructor once said “DON’T FALL”.

Wednesday
Peter, Alex and Gary climbed Beinn Sgulaird (937) – above Creagan on the Argyll coast –
one of the few Munros in the area that Alex and Gary had not climbed. A fine, remote and
rocky route which gave some challenges and we all got our axes out. Whilst Peter and
Alex layered up in the cold Easterlies Gary wore a T-shirt and no hat most of the way up!
Peter ran down to head to Edinburgh to pick up Kathy. Alex and Gary had a bit of an epic
descent in the rain making it back to the car at 6pm after another long day.

Thursday
A bit of a dreich day – Peter and Kathy went for a low level walk above Loch Ard and
visited friends. Given the weather forecast and their aching legs Alex and Gary decided to
head home. Michelle and Alex arrived at the hut with Juan arriving late that night.

Friday
Glencoe. Peter, Alex, Michelle, James, Juan and Kathy headed up from Achnambeithach
below Stob Coire nam Beith. The group found some good steep snow from 800m and
crampons / ice axes came out. We ascended Hourglass gully (I) which was in decent
condition and atmospheric in the clag – if you didn’t mind the rain from melting ice half way up! Everyone had a great time and practised skills recently learnt. The descent proved
just as much fun as we headed down the steep North Ridge of Bidean nam Bian (1150) in
snow to Stob Coire nan Lochan (1115). James and Michelle descended Broad Gully (I)
while the rest of us yomped down the ridge of Lochan and watched them glissading the
last section while we had a break. Long descent and dinner at the Clachaig Inn.
Saturday

The “Glenmore 3” – Alan, Stacey and Jason – arrived fresh from their 5-day winter
mountaineering course at Glenmore Lodge having had a great time. Heavy rain hit the
mountains but 2 groups braved it deciding (independently) to take on School House Ridge
– a Winter and Summer grade I route – up Sgorr Dearg (1024) above Ballachulish.
Everyone got thoroughly soaked and Stacey, Alex, Michelle, James, Jason and Alan
battled their way down through the forest after deciding that the main route down was “too easy”. A route to go back to in proper winter conditions we all decided but a proper
“Scottish” day. Some went back to the Clachaig for dinner.

Sunday
Everyone decided to get an early start on travel except Peter and Kathy who decided to
take in a bit of the Eastern Mamores on a decent day before the rain came in. The tops
were out of the clag and we even got our axes out to cut steps across some unexpectedly
scary steep snow and to walk the narrow ridge to the summit of Binnein Mor (1130) :-).
Some fun route finding across Na Gruagaichean (1055) and down its S/SW ridge finished
the day. Juan also headed up to see the CIC hut which sits at 700m below the North Face
of Ben Nevis which he really enjoyed with plans to return – if he can get his boots sorted
out!

The weather didn’t completely play ball but everyone managed at least one proper winter
day and we hope to return next year.

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MKMC climbs with MK Deaf Climbing Club

On Friday, MK Deaf Climbing Club were kind enough to spend some time with MKMC members, teaching them some valuable communication skills. Our very own Jess Maryan helped us to put together some instructional videos with Tom, Neal and Alan as backing dancers.

Take in!

 

Take in alternative, not to be used around HGV’s…

 

Ready to climb

 

To get the climbers attention, tap on the rope.

 

Ready to lower.

 

Lead climbing works a little differently, the climber taps the clip to let the belayer know to give out rope.

 

Please check our downloads page for a copy of the Deaf Climbing Sign System.
Sign Climbing System

If you’d like to know more about MK Deaf Climbing Club, you can find them on Facebook.

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