Milton Keynes Mountaineering Club

Overall it’s been a very good year for MKMC with club membership has increased by twenty since the last AGM, another record year with membership now exceeding 70. Club activity has been high with a large number of members attending official and unofficial weekend meets and day trips across venues in the UK and abroad. There has been a lot more website updates and facebook traffic from the committee to help get information out to the club, but more input from members is always welcome. So it’s worth looking at the website again & the picture galley to remember what a good year it has been.

December 2012 – The Christmas Meet – Oread Mountaineering Hut, Heathy Lea, an old saw mill on the Chatsworth estate near Baslow in the Peak District, was the club’s destination for the weekend, and it turned out to be very popular with club members with some members sleeping in the attached barn, Kent once again stepped up to cook a feast for sixteen hungry people.

January 2013 – Burns Celebration weekend – The meeting at the end of January is when MKMC traditionally celebrate Robby Burns birthday. And so it was that fourteen members filled the little Welsh miner’s cottage in Bethesda belonging to the Wellingborough Mountaineering Club. Snakes and ladders route through the disused slate quarries and as usual Alan serving haggis neaps and tatties and the traditional poetry reading with an old member flying in from Germany to attend.

February 2013 – The club meeting for February was in the Chester Mountaineering Hut on the tourist path up Snowdon about 300m above Llanberis. Fourteen members attended the weekend and headed off into the North Wales hills walking up various peaks including Moel Cynghorion & the rest of the Moel Eilio range, Snowdon & Crib y Ddysgl via the Rhu Path and the South ridge plus Snowdon via the North Ridge & Crib Goch. Some even managed to do some rock climbing in the Llanberis Pass – Flying Buttress and a route up the East face of Tryfan.

March 2013 – The club meeting for March was at the George Starkey Hut in Patterdale, near Ullswater in the Lake District. Snow storms and high winds made the drive to the hut impossible for some, but still attracted 10 hardened members. They battled deep snow, gale force winds and freezing temperatures all weekend but still managed to bag Place Fell, St Sunday Crag and Angletarn Pikes. Thanks to all that attended and despite the Arctic Conditions made it a good meet.

April 2013 – The Club’s destination for the April meet was the R. O. Downes Memorial Hut, nestling at the foot of Froggatt Edge. Seven MKMC members attended the trip. The first group to arrive on Friday morning headed up to Froggatt Edge, but it was damp, with snow drifts resting against the base of some of the climbs.  A few easy routes were climbed before heading back to the hut. Saturday promised warm and calm weather, and everyone set off for Rivelin Edge where a number of classic climbs were completed. On Sunday, some of the party went to Horseshoe Quarry while others decided to give Froggatt another try. The wind was incredibly strong on the edge – the Horseshoe Quarry team made the best choice!

May 2013 – For some indoor camping at Kirkby Malham, just a stone’s throw away from Malham. A weekend that will be difficult to beat when it comes to drama and excitement, A Saturday afternoon hunt for a cream tea, members got to witness Steve McClure redpoint a 9a+ at Malham Cove. Sunday, and eveyone had a great days climbing at Rylstone with Stuart doing his first ever lead.  Finally, on the last day, a group of MKMC members went to Rocky Valley, Ilkley. Ian started the 3* route “Flake Climb” but got stuck by a boulder falling and trapping his arm. Mountain rescue, the police, the fire service, Yorkshire Air Ambulance and even the BBC came along to the rescue with Alan stepping in to play doctor.

June 2013 – The club’s camping trip in June was to The Sea Barn near Portland. Member spent the weekend walking along cliff top paths or climbing up the cliffs instead.

Also in June six members of the club arranged a trip to warmer lands  – Arco in Italy just North of Lake Garda for a week’s sport climbing. Staying at the camp site called the ‘Camping Zoo’ in two mobile homes with a covered patio area. MKMC were in Arco to climb, so once ensconced in our mobile homes we headed to various venues to climb including the crags at Massi Di Prabi, Parete Zebrata, San Paolo, Muro dell’Asino, Massone, Val Lomasone, Preore (the crag with the wooden sculptures), a 40km drive from Arco and at Noriglio 10 km to the East plus some via ferrata at Riva del Garda. There was a bit of sight-seeing, notably Arco castle, with some fantastic views over the town and Lake Garda. Ian’s accident from 3 weeks earlier didn’t slow him down one bit.

July 2013 – In July the clubs camping trip was to Beeches Farm Campsite in the Wye Valley with climbing at Shorn Cliff, Wintour’s Leap and Ban-y-Gor and walks around the valley including Devil’s Pulpit. Additionally club members went paddling in canoes and kayaks on the River Wye.

August 2013 – The clubs Summer get together was in early August with approx. 30 people attending the event at the Galleon in Wolverton. There was a raffle with lots of prizes and a quiz (which Rachel won). There was a great atmosphere, and near closing time a number of members headed off to CMK to party the night away. A good time was had by all.

Additionally in August, the monthly meet was a camping trip to Capel Curig, North Wales – A bank holiday weekend in Wales, and for once the weather decided to be kind. For the second time this year Ian’s trip didn’t go smoothly. Upon retiring to their tents on Friday Mac and Ian found them to be empty – they had been burgled. Also, for the third time this year, Emma’s car had a hand to play in proceedings.  Weekend activities included climbing at Tremadog, East face of Tryfan and Little Tryfan (which offered some the opportunity to practice placing gear and belaying). Despite mixed fortunes the weekend was a great success.

September 2013 – Eight MKMC members attended the meet in the Peak District at Hope Valley.  The weather forecast was looking dire for the club camping trip, and at the last minute the Don Whillans Memorial hut at The Roaches became available, and Ant (trip organiser) booked it. Friday – early arrivals had a play on The Roaches lower tier before rain stopped play. Saturday – a cold start, but the weather warmed up and we got a number of quality routes done. Sunday – In a howling gale some of the group went for a walk to Luds Church – an impressive piece of natural architecture.

October 2013 – The clubs October meet in Capel Curig based in Gwydyr Mountaineering Clubs Hut. Tan-y-Garth Cottage is situated in woodland at the base of Moel Siabod – the area is very scenic and peaceful but convenient for local amenities including a Pub nearby and local stores in the centre of Capel Curig and in Betws y Coed, only a short drive away. Seven members, and Freddie the dog, attended the meet walking and climbing in the Owgen Valley including at Milestone Buttress.

Several MKMC club members also headed off to Costa Blanca for a spot of climbing.  The group stayed in a villa in Calp and climbed on several crags in the area including Sierra de Toix, alimestone crag with sharp and positive holds plus glorious views of the Penon, Echo Valley – Paret de la Bassa, Sella – probably the most popular area in the Costa Blanca, and with the polish to prove it!, Guadalest and a quiet ‘little’ crag at L’Ocaive, situated to the North of Calp. From a distance the crag looked rather vegetated, but weaving between the greenery were some lovely routes; clean and positive. Higher up the crag were some more testing lines, so there was something to keep everyone happy. The group also walked the Bernia Ridge. Climbing in Spain at this time of year is definitely preferable to climbing in the UK!

November 2013 – The clubs November meet was in Coppermines Valley based in Yorkshire Mountaineering Clubs Hut at the back of the town of Coniston. The meet was attended by eighteen members of the club who over the weekend climbed, scrambled and walked across the fells around the YMC hut and in the nearby valley of Langdale.

The Annual General Meeting 2013 was held at Big Rock climbing centre in Milton Keynes with 25 members attending and voting on a number issues including MKMC charities and the clubs Loan Equipment plus appointing the new committee.

December 2013 – A Xmas get together was held in Milton Keynes centre in early December with about twenty members joining in the evening’s fun.

This year’s Christmas meet was at Tan Yr Wyddfa the mountaineering hut of the Oread Mountaineering Club in Snowdonia and is at Rhyd Ddu. The twenty one members of the club that attended the meet had to battle high winds and periods of torrential rain but various members still managed to do Lockwood’s Chimney at Clogwyn y Bustach, a walk around Llyn Gwynant, the Nantle Ridge passing over the peaks of Y Garn, Mynydd Drws y Coed, Trum y Ddysgl, Mynydd Tal y Mignedd, a scramble up Clogwyn y Person Arete in Llanberis Pass, walks around Beddgelert valley and climbing in the slate quarries above Llanberis. Saturday night everyone headed down for drinks, food and fun at The Cwellyn Arms in Rhydd Ddu.

Forthcoming events for 2014/2015 – The committee has already been busy arranging club meets for 2014/15. For Winter Meets we have a visit to the Lake District at the Fylde MC – Stair Hut for the Burns night fare – haggis, tatties and neeps and meets at Caseg Fraith, Owgen in Snowdonia plus at Malham in the Yorkshire Dales. Spring and Summer are the seasons of camping trips with plans to visit Cornwall, Wasdale in the Lake District, Wye Valley, Peak District, Lundy and Swanage. In October the club is planning to have a foreign meet in Spain. Then it’s a return to Mountaineering Huts in North Wales, Lakes District plus holding the 2015 Burns Meet in Scotland.

13^th to 15^th December 2013 – Oread Mountaineering Club Hut

This years MKMC Christmas meet was at Tan Yr Wyddfa the mountaineering hut of the Oread Mountaineering Club in Snowdonia and is at Rhyd Ddu.

Friday – Alan, Stuart and David set off early(ish) for N.Wales having the obligatory stop off at Kent’s Cafe near Shrewsbury. Alan and Stuart climbed Lockwood’s Chimney at Clogwyn y Bustach  – “fairly unique in that most of the climb takes place inside the cliff”. David went for the scenic option – a walk around Llyn Gwynant.

Jay, Andy & Dan arrived at hut, had lunch and went for a local walk followed by a couple of pints to check out the venue for Xmas meal of The Cwellyn Arms.

Saturday– With the weather forecast looking quite bad for later in the afternoon Alan, Andy, Gareth, David, Jay & Dan got up early and headed towards the Nantle Ridge at first light. In high winds they battle their way along the ridge passing over the peaks of Y Garn, Mynydd Drws y Coed, Trum y Ddysgl, Mynydd Tal y Mignedd  until they reached Bwich dros- bern where the wind greatly increased, so they dropped down into Cwn Pennant to get out of the wind and then headed back via the Barracks, Craig Cwm Trwsgl and the Beddgelert forest.

Ian, Gavin and Anna went around to Llanberis Pass and walked up into Cwm Glas and then scrambled up Clogwyn y Person Arete but due to high winds were unable to return via the ridge of Crib Goch , so return to their car after dropping back into Cwm Glas.

Ambrose, Becky, Pete, Karen, Stuart, Jason went on a circular walk 5mile walk along the valley overshadowed by Snowdon and Mynydd Mawr

Saturday night everyone headed down for drinks, food and fun at The Cwellyn Arms in Rhydd Ddu – all kindly arranged by Emma C.

Sunday – After tidying up the hut everyone set of in different directions to look for things to do including Karen, Alan, David, Stuart, Jason, Steve and Peter going for a circular walk, starting at the National Trust car park at Nantmor. This 6 mile walk around Beddgelert had it all – part gorge walk, part upland boggy moorland and glimpses of Wales’ mining heritage. They got back to the cars in the early afternoon, and in pouring rain they headed home. While Ian, Gavin and Anna went off to do Snakes and Ladders in the rain.

A selection of photos from the weekend have been added to the Galley Section.

Thanks to all that attended the weekend: – Andy, Jay, Dan, Karen, Alan, David, Stuart, Jason, Steve, Peter, Gareth, Mark, Melissa, Mac, Gemma, Emma, Ambrose, Becky, Ian, Gavin and Anna.

Several MKMC club members headed off to Costa Blanca for a spot of climbing. The team: Car 1 – Richard, Car 2 – Iain, Owen, Abu, Car 3 – Bob, Alex, Wayne, Marc, Car 4 – Tony, Rachel, Lydia Car 5 – Ian, Mac, Alan

Saturday 5^th October – We landed at Alicante on the Costa Blanca, and once out of the air conditioned airport we were met by a blast of warm air. We’d arrived, and as Tony put it in one of his posters on facebook, “They came to crush!” Somewhere between collecting our baggage and picking up the various hire cars, communications between groups broke down. While most people went to get some routes done at Sella, Ian, Mac and myself went to Calp. All was not lost as we did a couple of very nice routes at Sierra de Toix. The limestone was sharp and holds positive and we had glorious views of the Penon. We took plenty of bottled water and managed to stave off the effects of dehydration. By night fall we arrived at the villa, and met up with the others. The landlord (who claimed to be a policeman) gave us the keys and we were soon settled in. [Routes. Sierra de Toix:     Purpureo * 5      Winter ** 6a]

Sunday 6^th October – The excitement of arriving at Calp resulted in a late start to the day; something to do with the fact that many people didn’t go to bed until the small hours. When eventually we did get off we all went to Sierra de Toix (the opposite side from where I’d climbed yesterday). I climbed with Abu, but there were some routes we couldn’t do as we’d only got a 50 metre rope. (Note for next time – a 60 or 70 metre rope would be useful). Another very hot day. [Routes. Sierra de Toix:      Renov *** 4+, 5      Manual Andres ** 5, 6a      4 you ** 6a       Heaven is .. ** 5+      Steinbeisser * 6a]

Monday 7^th October – A slightly earlier start, and the last full day for Richard, Iain, Owen and Abu, as they had to fly back on Tuesday. Our destination – Echo Valley. I climbed with Mac all day, and we found a lovely little crag – Paret de la Bassa. The hardest route was only 6a+ and the rock was perfect in every way. The others headed further up the valley for some ‘extreme’ routes. There was a short shower in the afternoon, but the rock was so warm that any moisture soon evaporated. [Routes. Echo Valley – Paret de la Bassa:      Basillus ** 5a      Follaora * 5      Playboy * 6a      Clitoris salrane * 6a      Arandelon * 6a      Tas kedao sin birra * 5+      Tris Tras Trus * 6a      Coco ** 6a+]

Tuesday 8^th October – Sella – probably the most popular area in the Costa Blanca, and with the polish to prove it! The 3 routes that I did before rain stopped play were all excellent. Once the rain did arrive it did not abate, so we abandoned the climbing in favour of drinking coffee in a bar in the town. While we were there, two teams, enthusiastically supported by most of the town folk, engaged in a rather unusual game of handball. The object of the game seemed to be to hit a small ball (about the size of a squash ball) from one end of the street to the other. The team which hit the ball the furthest without it being returned gained a point. The team with the most points won. Under the circumstances the spectacle made an interesting diversion. [Routes. Sella:      Desbloquea que No * 5     Perlita * 5+     Martxa d’aci *** 6a]

Wednesday 9^th October – The group had talked about a rest day, but this was definitely not it. The Bernia Ridge was our goal, and the guide book had said to allow 5 – 10 hours for the round trip. Seven of us had elected to do this, but as circumstances turned out it was only 5 of us who completed it. Bob, Alex, Tony and Rachel set off from the villa, while Ian, Mac and myself hunted for the car keys. Half an hour later they were found, and we set off. As we walked along the approach path to the start of the ridge we came across Tony and Rachel. Unfortunately for Rachel she had twisted her ankle and was unable to go any further. The guide book directed us to go to a hole which goes right through the ridge. It didn’t tell us to go through the hole, but that’s what we did, and lost another half an hour in the process. Never-the-less it was an interesting feature and worth investigating. Back on track we scrambled up to the East col, and then it was just a matter of following the painted red dots that showed the route. The views from the ridge were fantastic, and apart from a brief rain shower as we approached the summit, the weather was perfect. The ridge involves a short section of climbing, an abseil and some scrambling, and after around 7 hours we had completed the traverse. Back at the villa the others had had a more relaxing day. Their goal had been to traverse the slack line stretched across the pool combined with a spot of sun bathing. [Route. The Bernia Ridge *** 4+]

Thursday 10^th October – We discovered a quiet ‘little’ crag to climb at L’Ocaive, situated to the North of Calp. From a distance the crag looked rather vegetated, but weaving between the greenery were some lovely routes; clean and positive. Higher up the crag were some more testing lines, so there was something to keep everyone happy. [Routes. L’Ocaive:      El Bordillo de ilustro 4      Ocaive placas * 4+      Cuerpo mujer ** 6a     La esquina asesina ** 6a      Aluncina con la esquina * 5a      El grajo del carajo * 6b            Amparito, no me toques ** 6a+      Hombres de papel * 6a      No t’as veras ** 6a+]

Friday 11^th October – Deidro UBSA at the Penon was Friday’s route. I love multi pitch climbing, so for me this was the high-light of the week. Mac, Ian and myself left the villa at approx 8:30 and we walked to Penon de Ifach. With Mac happy to second, Ian and myself did alternate leads, and we were soon established in a routine. After the initial scramble there followed 4 pitches climbing a groove / corner. Then came a face climb which led up to the large cave. From here we abseiled to a ledge before traversing left into the corner of “Pirates”. A final pitch led to the top, and magnificent views of Calp. The descent path (once we’d found the right one) was straight forward, although you could almost see your reflection in the rocks underfoot. [Route. Deidro UBSA *** 5+]

Saturday 12^th October – Our last day of climbing. It took about an hour to drive from Calp to Guadalest, a major tourist magnet, but fortunately the nearby rocks were relatively quiet. It was hot, and after 3 great routes I headed off to town to join the grockles. With presents to buy I shuffled around the shops hoping to be inspired.  The last supper of the holiday was at our regular pizzeria, Asador de Pollos. As usual, the food and service was good, and we retired to the villa suitably refuelled. [Routes. Guadalest:      Margallo ** 6a+      Garrofer ** 6a+      Ron con porros ** 6b]

Sunday 13^th October – We had an early start in order to catch our flight from Alicante at 10:15. There were no hitches, and we arrived back at a cold and wet Luton airport shortly after mid day. Climbing in Spain at this time of year is definitely the way to go!

Alan