Milton Keynes Mountaineering Club

On August Bank Holiday weekend, 15 members of MKMC journeyed down to the Gower Peninsula in South Wales for a fantastic weekend of Climbing, Walking, Surfing, Swimming and Pubbing. This is the first time that MKMC have headed to this location, which is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty situated just to the west of Swansea and offers stunning coastlines and fantastic sandy beaches. 

We camped at the Pilton Cross Caravan Park in an idyllic spot offering sunset views over the Bristol channel.

Neal and Alex Ward headed down early to get some Surfing in (with mixed success). 

James joined them on friday and after dodging a few showers they headed to Black Buttress, a Sport crag in the Rhossili area, the highlight of which was Monica’s Dress, an exciting line following a crackline up a groove and overhang.

Most of the rest of us arrived on Friday evening after fighting through the Bank Holiday Weekend traffic on the M4. 

Unfortunately, the tides were not especially favorable this weekend, low tide being at ~07.30 on Saturday and ~10.50 on Monday. However, not to be put off, Alistair and Kieran made a very early start and headed to the Sport Crag of Mermaid wall on Rhossili beach which is only accessible for about 2 hours either side of low tide. 

The rest of us took a more leisurely start. Nigel and Michelle went for a hike along the coastal bath from the campsite in Pilton Cross, to Port Eynon and back, taking in the flora and fauna, fantastic sea views, cliffs and beaches and were even graced with some wild ponies.

Meanwhile the remaining climbers headed to Carbon Slab, for some non-tidal sport climbing. This area is a compact slab of back rock offering climbs within the grades of 4b to 6b+. The highlight of this crag was Carbonate, a technical 6a up a soaring arete, Mary in particular was “well chuffed” to get this line. Other notable routes included Carbon Times, a delicate 6a+ up a slab with surprisingly positive hand holds, and Wait for the Fat Lady’s Thong, a varied 5+ following a groove and flake line up to an overhang with a stopper move to clip the chains. 

Neal took a mini-whipper on this and ended up inverting, fortunately he was ok other than a few bruises and managed to complete the route, but lessons were learned about the importance of making sure you don’t get your feet caught up in the rope.

We’d  spent most of the day watching rain clouds approach from the sea but somehow falling either side of us, but our luck could only hold out so long and we got caught in a deluge. This resulted in a heroic lead from Josh on a soaking wet Carbon Times in order to retrieve the quick draws.

Gower seems to be a place of many micro-climates and by the time we’d backed up and started walking back to the cars the sun had come out and things had brightened up considerably. Alex Ward, James, Naomi, Josh and myself spotted some dry rock and decided to try and squeeze a few more climbs in on Wedge Wall while the others headed to the pub.

The pub in question was the Worm’s Head Inn which turned out to serve both great beer and very tasty food. We ended up spending both Saturday & Sunday evening’s there.

On Sunday Alistair and Kieran got another early start and returned to the Tidal Crags on Rhossili beach before heading home. 

Michelle had a nice solo walk along the coastal path past the Worm’s Head (a small island that is connected to the mainland by a causeway at Low tide). 

Mary, Josh and Nick had aspirations to do some Trad, and headed to Trial Wall, however on discovering the rock was somewhat friable, made the sensible decision to stick to sport, moving onto Black Buttress after ticking most of the routes at Trial Wall.

The rest of us headed to Third Sister, another Sport climbing area, this time in a much more remote and secluded setting with multiple cliffs on different levels . We were the only people we saw for the whole day. The highlight for most people here was Gadaffi Groove, a steepish 6a line on very positive holds but with some tricky route finding. Another highlight here was the “discovery” of Bottom Third Sister, an almost secret cliff tucked well below the main climbing in a really idyllic spot above the sea. Alex Ward did a great lead here of The Haworth Lassies a very technical 6a+ up a steep slab and an overhang.

On Monday it was finally time to do some trad, and with the tides looking more favorable we headed to Tor Bay, climbing on Little Tor and Little Star Wall. These crags are in an absolutely stunning setting sprouting directly up from a golden sandy beach. The belay from the top of Little Tor has to rank in my top 5 belay spots! With time being somewhat limited and many people wanting to get off early in an attempt to beat the traffic home we weren’t able to get a huge amount done hear, but various people lead/seconded Right Edge (VD), Flake Corner (VD) and Central Flake (S) all three of these were of excellent quality. Michelle Ward joined us on the beach for a quick swim, and Michelle Neville and Alex Teixeira climbed briefly before also being drawn to the Sea  for a swim. 

With time pressing on, we set up a couple of top tops to allow us to get a bit more climbing in, in the time we had left. The first was on Left White, HVS 5a, an enjoyable slab climb with a delicate crux move from a good undercut (I regretted top-roping this as it felt quite leadable). The second top rope was on Superdirect E1 5c, a technical climb up cracks with poor feet.

Everyone involved had a fantastic weekend, and we’d all highly recommend The Gower for future MKMC trips.

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Friday 14^th to Sunday 16^th July
It was a wet and windy forecast that saw 6 members head up to Dolgam Campsite near Capel Curig on a Friday.  Keith, Peter and Kathy were up there early and headed to Beacon climbing on Friday due to the rain.  They enjoyed the 20m, mostly juggy, overhanging 6’s for the afternoon along with tea and cake!

On Saturday Peter and Kathy braved the weather to walk up to Llwtmor and skirt Foel Fras on the end of the Carneddau.  Winds gusting 40mph and rain all the way down was fun but the rainbows and Blaeberries made up for it.  The rest of the group went to Beacon for climbing, tea and cake. A range of grades were climbed with all enjoying the longer routes and the large overhang plus a taxing arête route. Saturday night was pretty wild and the farmer had to get most of the group up at 2:30 a.m. to move their tents out of the rising floodwater! Neal lucked out as he only had to move his van.  Sadly this didn’t make for a good rest and most of the group left for home on Sunday morning.  Kathy and Peter had booked an AirBnB sometime before the Club trip was announced and were grateful for the solid roof!

However, Matt, Neal, James, Peter and Kathy headed to Holyhead Mountain and managed to get in 8 good routes between them ranging from Plimsole (D) to Romulus (VS 5a) in the SUN.  In the late afternoon, a few showers persuaded them to head to the RSPB cafe for (you guessed it) tea, coffee and cake before an easy drive home on the North Wales Expressway.

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After a cycling around Arran last year Alan W wanted to explore the mountains of Arran, and so the idea for this trip was hatched.  Nine other members joined in; one accompanied by his wife.  Most of us arriving on Thursday eager for a long weekend in the mountains, based at Lochranza campsite on the island described as Scotland in miniature. Continue reading →

Upon Pembrokeshire’s shores, where sunlight doth reside,
A band of merry climbers did convene,
To scale the cliffs of legend, with hearts filled with pride,
And pay homage to Henry, the Tudor king serene.

From Windmill Farm’s embrace, their journey did commence,
Where Charlie and Peter set their tents with care,
While Kathy braved the downpour, her spirit undeterred,
To join their ranks, her climbing skills to share.

Penally’s cliffs awaited, with slabs so smooth and grand,
A reintroduction to abseiling’s art,
The sunbeams danced upon the rocks, a welcoming command,
As Rusty Slab and Ferrous Rib took their part.

James, Lee, and Tom emerged from far eastern lands,
To join the merry band, their spirits soaring high,
Rusty Corner, Pollock Diff, and Chocolate Brownies’ sands,
Were conquered with finesse, beneath the azure sky.

“While the Cat’s Away” they challenged, with a grin so wide,
Lee led the way, with Tom by his side,
But doubts arose, was it truly VS, or something more severe?
A conundrum left to ponder, as the tide began to ne’er.

A pub dinner awaited, with laughter and good cheer,
As stories of the day were shared, far and near.

Saturday’s dawn unveiled a sky of purest blue,
The rain had shed its tears, leaving sunshine in its wake,

To Stack Rocks car park they ventured, with spirits ever new,
Crystal Slabs and Flimston Bay, their climbing prowess to partake.

Kathy led the way on Flimston Slab, with Peter close behind,
Lee and Tom followed suit, their movements swift and fine,
Flimston Crack and Razzle Dazzle, their challenges entwined,
With Charlie and James in tow, their climbing skills did shine.

The Gadfly, a test of endurance, up the slab they soared,
James and Peter conquering its heights with grace,
While Tom and Kathy watched in awe, their climbing passion soared,
A highlight of the weekend, leaving an indelible trace.

Crystal Arete, a nervy slab, with gear both bold and high,
A final 5a move, an overhang to defy,
Charlie led the way, with James his steadfast guide,
A testament to their climbing skills, in which they did confide.

Sixth Crack, a pleasant diversion, not quite as grand,
Yet still a challenge worthy of their climbing band,
Charlie and James prevailed, their footsteps firm and sure,
As the day drew to a close, their climbing hearts secure.

With Lee nursing a cold, the rest returned to camp,
Content with their achievements, their spirits ever bright,
But Charlie and James, with one last climb to vamp,
Embraced the fading light.

“The First Waltz,” an E1, with moves both bold and new,
Charlie led the way, his determination true,
Dancing up the slab, with moves both strong and sure,

A fitting end to their climbing adventure pure.

Tom and James, the culinary duo, with nachos so grand,
Their recipe a secret, only shared among the band,
A taste of heaven, a culinary delight,
Their friendship a beacon, shining ever bright.

Sunday’s dawn brought changes, as the group did part,
James and Charlie ventured forth, with adventurous hearts,
To Mother Carey’s Kitchen, a venue of renown,
Where seabirds soared above, and crashing waves resound.

Saddle Head, a classic crag, with routes both easy and bold,
Lee, Peter, Kathy, and Tom, their climbing stories told,
“Small Beginnings,” “Forgotten Corner,” “Fel Gwyr,” and “Flake Quake,”
Their climbing prowess tested, for their own sakes.

Sea Mist, a traverse so exposed, with fingery holds so fine,
Peter led the way, his balance and skill divine,
An atmospheric experience, a memory to enshrine,
A testament to their climbing skills, both bold and sublime.

James and Charlie ventured forth, to Mother Carey’s lair,
Where Rock Idol awaited, a challenge beyond compare,
E1 5a, the best in the land, so they were told,
But fate intervened, a bird’s nest in the way, their spirits bold.

With patient James on belay, watching the tide so near,
Charlie reluctantly retreated, his frustration clear,
Yet the adventure continued, with “The Cracks” they did ascend,
A fitting end to their journey, as their climbing skills transcend.

The final day brought rain, a monsoon’s wrath unleashed,
But the climbers’ spirits remained, their memories enriched,
From Pembrokeshire’s shores, their journey now complete,