22-27 August – Caerfai Farm campsite – St Davids
With a great weather forecast the group were looking forward to enjoying some serene sea cliff climbing and making use of the Range West briefings attended by some earlier in the year to access the restricted MOD climbing in Castlemartin Range.
Friday
Charlie and Kieran went to Mother Carey’s and climbed Inner Space (HVS) – a great journey into the depths of the cliff with some traditional back and forth, as well as Spacewalk (HVS).
Peter Neal and Naomi went to Craig Caerfai where Neal led Caerfai Crack and White Wall (HS) and Peter led the excellent Armorican (VS) at speed (with enough gear for two climbs).
Peter headed off to Haverfordwest to pick up Kathy from the train station and a chilled sunset gathering happened at the campsite.
Saturday
Peter, Kathy, Neal, Naomi and Nick headed to Porth Fynnon to climb around initiation slabs, a super tidal venue, so some hanging belays were required at the bottom of the abseil. Kathy led Gemini and Versary Slab (VD, S) while Neal led Gemini and Capricorn (S). Peter and Neal finished the day both leading Aries (VS) – a traverse then arete from a hanging belay as the tide came in – competing as to who could make the climb less bold.
Charlie and Kieran headed to a busy Carreg y Barcud and climbed a few E1s – Beyond the Azimuth, Be Brave and Sinecure.
Tom and Alex headed to Porth Clais climbing at the classic Red Wall and the slabs.
After a swim in Caerfai bay most had Pizza from the campsite and a chat as the sun went down.
Sunday
Kathy, Peter, Naomi, Nick and Neal headed to Crag Coetan near Whitesands bay for some multi pitch cliff climbing. Exciting abseil approaches and scrambles to the start of some of the climbs just above the water. We were visited by seals during the day. Highlights included Act of God (VS) and LBJ (VS), Central Climb (S) and Fuzzy Peg route (S) as well as a solo climb out on Zig Zag (D). Ice cream back at the cafe on the way back. Iwona and Jason turned up on a walk to say hello.
Charlie and Kieran headed back to Range West to the Abseil hole area (see pics) and climbed Lost in Space (HVS) with their head torches (as it is inside the cliff).
Tom and Alex went to Crag Caerfai and climbed Armorican as well as some of the other excellent climbs there.
Everyone walked to the Saffron kitchen in St David’s for a group dinner.
Monday
Tom and Alex headed home aiming to climb on the way. Neal and Naomi and Nick went back to Crag Caerfai so that Neal could try Armorican – but he got pumped out on the crux and had to lower off. Next time.
Peter and Kathy headed to Range West to Abseil hole and 40ft wall. It was too wet to climb Lost in Space so they climbed Bullet (VS) which went through an even narrower cave with a second pitch out into space above crashing waves. Great ceiling thread belay in the cave. Kathy also led Intruder as the rock got nearly too hot for climbing!
Charlie and Kieran went to Bosherston head to increase their tally of quality HVS routes.
Tuesday
Peter, Charlie and Kathy went to Range West Mount Sion. The sea swell was huge due to storm remnants crashing over the 30m cliffs in places. Some adventure climbing in the somewhat sheltered amazing rock formations of Pen y Holt bay resulted in Peter leading Pigeon Loft (HVS) and Charlie leading Seaman Staines (sic) (HS) and Door Jam (HVS) – the latter while everyone hid under an overhang to avoid the rocks flying down from the extremely chossy top out!
Wednesday
On the way back Peter and Kathy stopped at 3 Cliffs Bay on the Gower and climbed the classics of the bay Arch Slab (VS) and Scavenger (VS) with friends; as well as Kathy leading Central Slab (S) and Initiation Flake (HS).
A great weekend in the superb Pembroke weather. Ready for next year’s briefing at Castlemartin in the Easter everyone?
Great trip and some quality climbs. And some extensive abseil practise!