October 2024 – Sustainable camping meet – Isle of Rùm.

10-17 October

Our October trip, no expedition, was to Rùm the largest but most sparsely populated of the Small Islands of the Inner Hebrides. This was MKMC’s greenest trip yet with all travel from Milton Keynes being on public transport. Due to Rùm’s remoteness travel had to be spread over two days. We’d discover a wild rugged island a remote bothy and wonderful mountain vistas.

Thursday 10th October

Alan W and Nigel departed Milton Keynes for Glasgow, with a quick change at Manchester. Glasgow gave a short walk between Central and Queen’s Street station, a brief introduction to the weight they had to carry to the first Bothy on the Rùm. A quick dinner before the train to Fort William and their overnight stay – luckily a ten minute walk from the station – unluckily uphill!

Friday 11th October

An early train to Mallaig completed the rail journey. There was enough time for a hearty breakfast of Scottish kippers before checking in for the ferry. Unfortunately the regular ferry’s maintenance had overrun and they had to use a replacement a smaller, significantly smaller, mainly open boat for the crossing. Bumpy is a good adjective. The crew did sight a Minke whale and circled to allow a better view, unfortunately nobody told the whale!

First call was the General Store for a coffee and to supplement five days of dehydrated food with some fresh food. What idiot would also add 1kg of extra weight to large rucksack?

Shouldering heavy rucksacks they were off. The trek to Dibidil bothy started with a short climb and then contoured the east coast before the final descent. This was hard going the ‘path’ was indistinct from a stream in places, topped up by the numerous streams that crossed it. As soon as darkness came, so did the rain; headlights did pick up the path. The zigzag indicated the start of the descent to the Dibidil river, the last crossing before the bothy. Alan W and Nigel walked up and down trying to find the best place to cross it. Eventually, deciding on the crossing point they gingerly crossed. Unfortunately, this involved a leg going in.

Within metres the end wall of the bothy was picked out by their headlights. Settling into the larger room water was collected, treated, drinks made, food cooked and eaten.

Saturday 12th October

Bad weather was scheduled for today. Alan W and Nigel set off to explore the surrounds of the bothy. A small dam with an outlet pipe had been built just behind it. As well as a water source this also became a useful measure of how much water was draining off the mountains surrounding the bothy. They tried to get down to the shore in a search for drift firewood, unfortunately, the descent was rather difficult and no driftwood could seen. A quiet day followed as Nigel was suffering with something feeling nauseous and exhausted. The Dibidil river has risen so much that another pair were unable to cross and had to return to Kinloch!

Sunday 13th October

Our intrepid duo set off for their main objective of the expedition, the south-west ridge of Askival via Beinn Nan Stac (548m). They followed the south ridge, as per guidebook, which was pathless on steep hummocky grass. Hard going, very hard going. After lunch near the top they tried to find the descent down through the rocky drops to the col. They couldn’t; reconsidering their options they decided to avoid a walk alongside a river in the dark so opted to shorten the route and return to the bothy. They chose their own longer route back, following easier angled slopes.

That evening they were joined in the bothy by Joel on a brief break from university. Joel told them about his quest to complete the Munros, playing his bagpipes on each summit, to raise money for the British Heart Foundation.

Monday 14th October

Alan W and Nigel decided to return to Kinloch to attempt Askival from the north. After brushing out the bothy, they shouldered their rucksacks, probably 4 to 6kg lighter (food eaten & no, erm, ‘liquid ballast’) but including all their rubbish from their few days there. Seeing the path in daylight showed just how much it dropped down to the sea in parts.

On arrival in Kinloch they dropped their rucksacks at the bunkhouse and headed to the shop for coffee and to meet the warden. Compared to the bothy the bunkhouse was total luxury; flushing toilets and showers!

Tuesday 15th October

MWIS was forecasting high wind’s, gusting to 40 mph, for the tops today! Wisely Alan W and Nigel decided to head to the lower and more rounded Barkeval (591m). The path up from Kinloch to An Coire Dubh was lovely and dry compared to the east coast path; luxury! Rather than the direct ascent to the col they took the sheltered approach to Na Cnapan Breaca before traversing to the col and then the summit of Barkeval. Ascending from the col the winds were getting much stronger. At the east summit, they sensibly decided to turn around. Dropping back into An Coire Dubh the easing of the wind was very welcome.

On the way down Nigel mentioned a truly magical word, “chips”! So it was straight to the General Stores for chips, and a cup of coffee. A frozen pizza was also a welcome change to dehydrated backpacking meals!

Wednesday 16th October

Departure day, before the ferry our team had to have a look through the windows of Kinloch Castle – an amazing place that has just been left. A short walk along the south coast of Loch Scresort to the Otter Hide for lunch and some wildlife watching. Alan W and Nigel did catch a couple of glimpses of something swimming, too brief to determine if was an otter or a seal. They did get a good view of a grey heron walking along the shore.

Luckily the regular ferry had returned to service and appeared on the horizon for the return crossing. On a rising tide all passengers had to time their walk up the stern ramp perfectly – otherwise you’d paddle through the water covering the ramp!

Back in Mallaig the fish & chips were calling, as well as beer from a glass! A true sign of civilisation!

Thursday 17th October

The day of the trains! First to Glasgow on the West Highland line, crossing the Glenfinnan Viaduct where a steam train was waiting in the station to make the next crossing. After the short walk across Glasgow the second train brought Alan W and Nigel back to Milton Keynes.

We didn’t manage to get up Askival or over to Guirdil bothy but Rùm is a magical rugged island. I’m sure there will be another trip – Rùm II: Unfinished Business? It’s rude to only use a map once right?

With two members the total travel mileage from Milton Keyes to Rùm was 1,042 miles. Using public transport only 18.8 miles were in a private car; saving 98% of the driving distance! Definitely the most sustainable MKMC trip ever!